For the small craft mariner, Portsmouth is unmissable. The entrance is subject to strong tidal streams, very narrow, tightly controlled, and extremely busy.

Once through the entrance things open right up, and deeper within there are vast drying areas traversed by well marked channels. The visiting yachtsman or motorboater will find numerous mooring opportunities. Portsmouth is a historic Naval City, and everywhere you go will be reminded of this. For those with a love of the sea it is a must.

From the days of Henry VIII and the capsising of the Mary Rose right up to the modern nuclear powered submarines and aircraft carriers, Portsmouth has seen them all. The visitor will have ample choices to look at various exhibits and restored vessels, from the remains of the Mary Rose, HMS Victory, HMS Warrior, and various submarines at Haslar.

The harbour is naturally formed with an entrance only around 200 m wide, and with a tremendous number of large ship movements you can expect a ship movement through the entrance roughly every five minutes. Extreme care is required with the harbour being under control of the Queen's Harbour Master, whos' staff are usually afloat  shepherding small craft mariners through the entrance.

There are a raft of rules and regulations (c/w dire penalties for transgressions) to ensure that accidents don't occur in the narrow entrance.

This coverage is concerned with entry to Portsmouth, plus berths near the immediate entrance- Haslar Marina on the Gosport side to port plus Gunwharf Quays and Camber Dock on the Portsmouth side.

Two further coverage articles deal with the Gosport marinas further in, and the huge (mainly drying) expanse of the northern parts of this natural harbour

https://www.visitmyharbour.com/harbours/solent/gosport-marinas/expanded.asp

https://www.visitmyharbour.com/harbours/solent/port-solent-and-fareham/expanded.asp

Virtually all the needs for the boat can be met in the Portsmouth area, but the marinas that take visitors are mainly on the Western side. Stocking up and day-to-day needs for the boat can be met in Gosport on this side, but a trip to the city will need a short ferry ride across the harbour.

Shopaholics will be in their glory on the Portsmouth side, and anyone generally interested in Britain's illustrious seafaring history won't be disappointed either.

All in all Portsmouth is well worth a visit but due care must be taken transiting the narrow entrance. Full details of how to go about this are now given...

Pilotage directions for Portsmouth Harbour...  Before making any attempt at entry, it will be wise to read through and understand the rules and regulations regarding the boat channel. These are published in the "More Info" section of our coverage.

  Note main entrance channel and small craft channel have changed, KHM notice(s)

https://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/qhm/portsmouth/leisure

Note there have been significant changes made to the approach channel in 2017 to accommodate the new Navy aircraft carrier. You will need up to date charts., and the ones provided here are Jan 2022.

The  next thing is to have your VHF radio switched to channel 11,  as all vessels without radios need an escort in or out of the harbour. Finally you must use your engine in the closer approach, from the region of the No.4 red can buoy.   It is essential to understand that small craft entering and leaving are obliged to use the small craft channel now described....

It is craziness to try and sail into this harbour, firstly the boat channel is very narrow at 50 m, secondly the wind is extremely fluky in the entrance, thirdly there are strong tidal cross sets, and finally the consequences of ending up helpless in the narrow channel in front of a ferry bearing down on you don't bear thinking about.

Also bear in mind that the tide can flow out of the entrance at up to 5 kn around three hours after high water springs, so it's essential to consult the tide tables to know what to expect.

These warnings aside, providing a sharp eye out is kept ahead and astern at all times the entrance can be made in safety. There is room for ships to be transiting and for boats in the small boat channel at the same time providing everyone follows the rules.

If approaching from the West the small boat Mariner has two choices, either to pass inshore of the Hamilton Bank or to use the Swashway channel between Hamilton Bank and the Spit Bank.

Inner Swashway Channel.

The former passage called the Inner Swashway is officially recommended only for people with local knowledge, but in practice many yachts use it with a suitable rise of the tide and attention to the charts. Boats over 20 m long are forbidden to use this channel.

To avoid the inner end of the drying Hamilton Bank, it is necessary to keep within one cable of the wall of Fort Blockhouse for the last two cables run in towards the lit red beacon "BC Outer" (Oc.R.15s). This beacon acts as a traffic separation mark; treat it as an anti clockwise mini continental roundabout and leave it to port whether inbound or outbound remembering when inbound, having passed it, you need a tight turn to port to stop from overshooting into the big ship channel, and, of course, when outbound not to run onto the putty on your starborad side!

Entry via the Small Boat Channel.

Follow the small boat channel in close to the wall on your port side, and be aware that if any small boats are coming out you must allow them room to pass between you and the wall. At the same time you must not drift into the main channel. There's not much room but it is sufficient.

Identify and make for the red lit Ballast Beacon (Fl.R.2.5s) and pass it closely on your port side (unless of course you are going to Haslar marina, in which case you can turn to port and make for the conspicuous lightship while obviously watching for oncoming traffic in the small boat channel).  The Ballast Beacon is in the middle of the Small Ship Channel and should be left to port inbound or outbound thus separating inbound and outbound traffic. If heading on up the harbour you need to watch out for traffic crossing you from the Portsmouth side to join the Small Ship Channel.

Swashway Channel.

The Swashway Channel as mentioned before leads between Hamilton Bank and the Spit Bank. This carries a bit more water (minimum 1.8 m). By steering about 50° and lining up the War Memorial on the foreshore together with the right hand edge of yellowish coloured conspicuous apartment building you will be in this channel.

Continue inwards on this transit until the depths underneath you quickly increase to 5 m plus. At this stage make a 90° swing to port, locate and identify the No.4 red can buoy (Q.R) leaving it close on your port side.

Continue towards the harbour entrance and leave the red beacon "BC Outer" (Oc.R.15s) very close to port, and then follow the instructions given above.

You may encounter Fast Cats and Hovercraft in this approach, so keep a weather eye behind you, esp. when about to change course.

From The East.

When approaching from the East it is necessary to go south of Horse Sand Fort as there is a submerged barrier lurking just under the water. The unwary and unprepared may get away with sailing over the top of this at high water, but at any other time these concrete blocks can do you severe damage. They were built to stop submarines and they'll stop you !  There are two passages through this barrier showing clearly on the charts and a shortcut through the Main Passage which is lit could save a detour. Consultations with the tidetables are obligatory.

Once through this gap, or past the fort it is simply a matter of keeping well out of the ship Channel and heading towards Southsea leaving all the green buoyage well off on your port side.

At some stage the shipping channel will have to be crossed to line you up for picking up the small boat channel.  You should cross at right angles wherever it is safe to do so. You must make your crossing before the red can No.4 buoy (Q.R), as it is forbidden to cross the Channel further in than that.

Once across on the Western side of the Channel follow the red buoyage, staying just outside the channel and leaving these buoys to starboard until you enter the small boats channel at No4 Bar Buoy which should be left close to port to avoid the outbounds which will also leave it to port. The entry details given already can now be followed.

At night entry is not impossible. But, because of the background shore lights making it difficult to identify navigation lights of small craft on the move and generally making everything very confusing it is not recommended for a first visit.

A link to the King's Harbourmaster's website is provided below:

http://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/qhm/portsmouth

For the visiting yachtsman or motorboater there are plenty of opportunities for berthing your boat just within this historic harbour. 

Very close to the entrance on the Gosport side is Haslar Marina, and it's close to the Gosport ferries that can take you across to Portsmouth.

Two other marinas,  Gosport Marina,  and the Royal Clarence Marina come up just after Haslar on the Gosport side. These are covered in a separate article.  All have visitors berths available.

Finding a mooring on the Portsmouth side is more difficult, and involves getting permission and crossing the busy harbour. Gunwharf Quay and the Camber Docks are the only possibilities.
On the Western side within a short distance of the entrance is Haslar Marina. For many this popular marina is the easiest option to go for.

Haslar Marina.

This is the first Marina you will see as you enter the harbour, laying on your port hand side. It is easily recognisable by the lurid green light ship painted with huge white lettering saying "HASLAR MARINA".

Dedicated visitors berths are available and they are located on the pontoon immediately behind this lightship, and marked on the chart. Access is available at all state of the tide, staff on hand 24 hours a day and good security with cameras and lights.

To check the availability of berths call Marina on VHF channel 80, or telephone 023 9260 1201. The prices here (2022) are £3.75 per metre per day . Short stays are £15 per metre under 14 metres an £20 per metre above 14metres. Winter rates are substantially cheaper being £2.20 per metre per day. For full details check their website below:

Fuel is not available here, but nearby at Gosport Marina's fuel jetty.

A whole range of marine services are available on site or nearby, for details check the directory. The boat scrubbing facility unfortunately shut a while ago.

Within the lightship is a bar and restaurant, very convenient for the visitors berths. Also on-site is a bistro and wine bar located near the car park.

In general this Marina has a very good reputation with excellent shelter and superb facilities to match, at prices that are not unreasonable.

Local facilities in Gosport town are covered a bit later.

The Eastern side of the Harbour.

On the Eastern side as you enter the harbour there are two possibilities for mooring, but before you approach either of them you will need to have arranged your berth. Having sorted out a berth on this side, then call the Harbour Master for permission to cross the harbour. Call the " Queen's Harbourmaster" on VHF channel 11 and ask for permission to cross the harbour. This should only be done after having passed the Ballast Beacon.  Likewise when emerging from the eastern side permission is required to cross to the small boat channel.

Gunwharf Quays will accept visitors, but you should ensure that they have a berth for you before calling on VHF to cross; you wont be popular milling around in the way of the Isle of Wight ferry whilst trying to find a berth!

To identify the marina it's just to the South of the "Spinnaker" Tower and the entrance is by the old Vernon Figure head on the north end of the old Vernon red brick ediface.

The impression we had of this place a few years ago was that it was pretty exclusive but it is understood that the present management has been trying for several years to overcome its reputation for being interested only in the glitzy trade. They are now said to "welcome visiting yachts of all sizes" and it must be admitted, especially if you have the memsahib on board, it does have its attractions and is only a short walk to the heady night life of Old Portsmouth as opposed to a yomp and a ride on the Gosport Ferry (a doubtful delight) if in one of the marinas on the other side.

They are charging (2022) £4.25 per metre per night for boats up to 12 metres  with a minimum of £34.00 (8m)  For boats over 12 metres they have a rising scale up to 30 metres for which they charge £7.78 per metre per night.  They are charging £1.50 per metre for a short stay (up to 4 hours) with a minimum of £10.00. Those prices include free water & shore power, along with free use of showers and laundrette. 

Should you wish to try contacting them call " Gunwharf Berths" on VHF channel 80, or telephone 023 9283 6732. They advise that you should book in advance but that, if they have room, they would try to react favourably to a last minute request on channel 80. Unfortunately, it has to be said, they do suffer badly from wash from passing ships which can make it very uncomfortable, so much so that if they offer you a berth on the outside of the main pontoon I'd think twice about it

Any kind of manoeuvring in this area needs extreme care as the Wightlink car ferry has it's lair just to the south, and the Wightlink fast cat berths just to the north.

The Camber Docks and slipway.

This area belongs to Portsmouth Council, and is mainly used for berthing of fishing boats and other small commercial vessels. It may be possible to squeeze in past the Isle of Wight ferry berth and get tied up in here.

The quayside is not really yacht friendly, with girders and pilings, but it may be possible to tie up outside an inactive hulk. Otherwise with care and plenty of of fenders (and preferably a fender-board) it should be possible to get tied up somewhere, remembering that it will be necessary to tend lines, (4m+ rise and fall). The whole area is very sheltered.

Priority is given to commercial vessels, and moored boats are supposed to be attended at all times unless permission is obtained from the managing agents, who's details are given below. This outfit also operates a very efficient dry stacking yard for Trailer Sailers who'd rather not trail. Telephone Ken Brown Boats: 023 9283 3166, link to website below:

www.kb-boatpark.co.uk

Before attempting to enter this area would be very wise to telephone these people to check it all out, and again you will need permission from the QHM before crossing the harbour to get here. Needless to say the berthing fees are very reasonable compared to any Marina, but facilities may be a bit thin on the ground. At least you're on the right side of the harbour for the action.

There is an information website at:-

https://www.portsmouth-port.co.uk/shipping/camber-dock

Just about every kind of facility imaginable for the boat can be found within the Portsmouth area. The general facilities available at each berthing place have been covered in the last section. This article deals with the more general town facilities available in each area where you can berth your boat.

Gosport.

If you a berthed in Haslar Marina on Western side close to the entrance Gosport would be the nearest town, and it's within walking distance. But note it's very close to the Gosport ferries that can whisk you to the Portsmouth side.

In Gosport itself...All normal town facilities are available including newsagents, chemists, banks with cashpoints and post offices. Iceland is perhaps the nearest supermarket, and there is a Waitrose also. An open-air market in the high Street sets up on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Bottled gas is available at the chandlery in Haslar Marina, and also at Solent Marine Chandlery in Mumby Road, Gosport.

The Gunwharf Quays Area.

If berthed at Gunwharf/Camber or if arriving on one of the frequent passenger ferries from Gosport this is what you'll find in the immediate area:

Gunwharf Quays is a self-contained area a bit of a hike from Portsmouth City Centre. An abundance of fancy designer clothes shops dominate the place, but there is an express convenience store, a newsagents and a specialist food shop. Cash machines are on site.

For a more serious stock up you'll need to make your way to the centre where you will find Iceland and Sainsbury's, as well as all the normal High Street names.

Calor gas can be found at Beaver Tool Hire, in Kingston Road PO1, and Hatton's Gas, Tipnor Wharf, PO2.

Trailer Sailers.

Camber Dock, Portsmouth.
This is a concrete slipway usable at all states of the tide, with a £2.50 charge each way. Jetskis are not allowed, and the instructions already given about getting permission from the QHM to cross the harbour need to be noted.

Surveyors:

Verbal or written reports delivered in plain English at the level you require, in a pragmatic way. We work with private owners, yacht brokers, charter companies, insurance companies, finance companies, and also coding organisations.  We specialise in surveying FRP and steel vessels, charter yachts and all small marine craft. With 25 years in the marine industry, www.marinesurveysuk.com are members of BMSE and YDSA Call Matt on   07798 554535   or email [email protected]

Transport.

Bus services

Local bus services are provided by First Hampshire & Dorset and Stagecoach serving the city of Portsmouth and the surroundings of Havant, Leigh Park, Waterlooville, Fareham, Petersfield and long distance service 700 to Chichester, Worthing and Brighton. Bluestar and Hovertravel also run services in the city, and Countryliner run a Saturday service to Midhurst. National Express services from Portsmouth run mainly from The Hard Interchange to London, Cornwall, Bradford, Birkenhead and Eastbourne. Many bus services also stop at The Hard Interchange. Other bus services run from Commercial Road North, Commercial Road South and Isambard Brunel Road. A new bus station has been proposed next to Portsmouth & Southsea Station replacing Commercial Road South bus stops and new bus stops and taxi ranks on Andrew Bell Street to replace the Commercial Road North bus stops when the Northern Quarter Development is built.

Roads

There are three road links to the mainland, signposted as "Out of City" from the City Centre. These are the M275, A3 (London Road) and A2030 (Eastern Road). The M27 has a junction connecting to the M275 into Portsmouth. The A27 has a westbound exit onto the A3 (London Road) and a junction onto the A2030 (Eastern Road). The A3(M) is a short section of motorway which runs from Bedhampton north to Horndean.

The A3 links Portsmouth with London, though much traffic uses the M27 and M3 to avoid traffic jams at Hindhead. The M27, M3 and A34 provide the other major route to the Midlands and the North of England.

Railways

The city has several mainline railway stations, on two different direct South West Trains routes to London Waterloo, via Guildford and via Basingstoke. There is also a South West Trains stopping service to Southampton Central (providing connections to Crosscountry services to Birmingham and Manchester), and a service by First Great Western to Cardiff Central via Southampton, Bath and Bristol. Southern also offer services to Brighton and London Victoria.

Portsmouth's stations are (in order, out of the city): Portsmouth Harbour, Portsmouth and Southsea, Fratton, Hilsea and Cosham (the last being on the mainland).

Ferries

Portsmouth Harbour has passenger ferry links to Gosport and the Isle of Wight. A car ferry service to the Isle of Wight operated by Wightlink is nearby. Britain's longest-standing commercial hovercraft service, begun in the 1960s, still runs (for foot passengers) from near Clarence Pier to Ryde, Isle of Wight, operated by Hovertravel.

Portsmouth Continental Ferry Port has links to Caen, Cherbourg-Octeville, St Malo and Le Havre in France, Bilbao in Spain and the Channel Islands. Ferry services from the port are operated by Brittany Ferries, P&O Ferries, Condor Ferries and LD Lines. On 18 May 2006 Acciona Trasmediterranea started a service to Bilbao in competition with P&O's existing service. This service got off to a bad start when the ferry Fortuny was detained in Portsmouth by the MCA for numerous safety breaches. The faults were quickly corrected by Acciona and the service took its first passengers from Portsmouth on the 25 May 2006. During 2007 AT Ferries withdrew the Bilbao service at short notice, citing the need to deploy the Fortuny elsewhere. The port is the second busiest ferry port in the UK after Dover handling around 3 million passengers a year and has direct access to the M275.

Airports

The nearest airport is Southampton which is approximately 20-30 minutes away by motorway, with a indirect South West Trains rail connection requiring a change at Southampton Central or Eastleigh.

Heathrow and Gatwick are both about 60-90 minutes away by motorway. Gatwick is directly linked by Southern services to London Victoria, whilst Heathrow is linked by coach to Woking, which is on both rail lines to London Waterloo, or by tube to either Victoria or Waterloo. Heathrow is directly linked to Portsmouth by National Express coaches.

The text on the TRANSPORT article above is covered by the following licence
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Text_of_the_GNU_Free_Documentation_License

These Rules and Regulations are taken verbatim from the KHM, and promulgated here in the interests of safety:

The Small Boat Channel is shown on Admiralty charts. Its northern and southern extremities are at Ballast Beacon and No 4 Bar Buoys respectively. A tide pole is fitted to Beacon BC4. Small Boats are reminded that they are extremely difficult to see and the harbour entrance is a blind bend to larger vessels. The following rules apply:
Small Boats must enter and leave the harbour through the Small Boat Channel.

All craft fitted with engines, when navigating in the Approach Channel to Portsmouth Harbour,are to proceed under power between No 4 Bar Buoy and the Ballast Beacon.

The Small Boat Channel may only be entered or exited by vessels approaching from the east at its northern or southern extremities.

A traffic pattern is established around Ballast Beacon; Small Boats entering the harbour are to pass close to the east of Ballast Beacon and those exiting close to the west.

Small Boats crossing the harbour entrance may only do so to the north of Ballast Beacon or to the south of No 4 Bar Buoy.

Small Boats, save those listed below, are not to loiter in the Small Boat Channel.

Small Boats should remain on the Starboard side of the Small Boat Channel and should adjust their speed to remain within the Small Boat Channel rather than overtake and be forced into the main channel.

VESSELS UNDER 20M
The following vessels under 20m in length are authorised to use the Main Channel and loiter in the Small Boat Channel when their duties require; Pilot Boats, Police Launches, QHM Harbour Patrol Launches or QHM Volunteer Harbour Patrol Launches, QHM Volunteer Harbour Patrol Personal Watercraft, Customs Craft, Royal Naval vessels, MCA Lifeboat, RMAS craft flying official flags or discs and tugs engaged in towing operations or escorting a vessel under instruction from a pilot.

Small boats may continue to use the Small Boat Channel when the main channel is closed for the passage of a large vessel other than a Queen Elizabeth Class (QEC) Aircraft Carrier. The Small Boat Channel will be shut to all traffic during QEC transits. 

The following speed limits apply:
Within Portsmouth Harbour - 10 knots.

Within 1,000 yards of the shore in any part of the Dockyard Port of Portsmouth - 10 knots.

Within Wootton Creek to the West of the meridian of the mouth of the creek.(Longitude 01 12’.84 W) - 5 knots.
The speed limit in each case is to be taken as "speed through the water".

SAFE SPEED
Mariners are also reminded of the importance in proceeding at a safe speed at all times as defined in Rule 6 of the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea (COLLREGS). In particular in the approaches to and inside Portsmouth Harbour, when determining a safe speed, special consideration must be given to small boats. These small vessels could have combined lanterns which may be difficult to pick out against the background lighting, and they may not be detected by vessels with radar at adequate range.

EXEMPTIONS
The above speed limits do not apply within designated water-skiing areas (see LNTM 20/07) if exceeded for the purpose of towing a water skier. Personal Water Craft (PWC) may only exceed the speed limit within the areas designated for their use. Fast Military Craft (see LNTM 17/04) will also be exempt on specific occasions for operational training reasons. Any person requiring to exceed the above speed limits for specific reasons should apply to the King’s Harbour Master for a licence.
 
GUNWHARF QUAYS/TOWN CAMBER
The following traffic management plan for craft under 20 metres in length (bound to/from Town Camber/Gunwharf Quays) is now in force:
Arrival. In the interest of safety all Small Boats bound for Gunwharf Quays/Town Camber are to enter harbour through the Small Boat Channel. Vessels are only to cross the Main Channel when they are to the north of Ballast Beacon, and permission has been obtained from KHM on VHF Channel 11. Vessels fitted with engines are to use them from entering the Small Boat Channel until arrival at Gunwharf Quays/Town Camber.

Departure. Small Boats departing from Gunwharf Quays and Town Camber are to obtain permission from KHM on VHF Channel 11 before proceeding. Small Boats leaving the Town Camber are to obtain approval before slipping and again when in the vicinity of The Point prior to crossing the Main Channel. All vessels are then to cross the Main Channel direct to Ballast Beacon and leave harbour through the Small Boat Channel. Vessels fitted with engines are to use them until exiting the Small Boat Channel. If any of these vessels are not fitted with VHF radio, fixed or portable, then they are to be escorted by a marshalling craft or accompany another vessel so fitted. When on station a QHM Harbour Patrol Launch or Volunteer Harbour Patrol Launch may undertake this task.

Commercial vessels under 20m in length and vessels belonging to other recognised groups based in the Town Camber, which are specifically registered for this purpose with QHM, may enter and leave the harbour close inshore on the eastern side. They are nonetheless still to request approval to proceed giving their intended route and license number (See para 11). If any of these vessels are not fitted with VHF radio, fixed or portable, then they are to be escorted by a marshalling craft or accompany another vessel so fitted. When on station a KHM Harbour Patrol Launch or Volunteer Harbour Patrol Launch may undertake this task.

Mariners are advised that there are no visitor berths or moorings at Gunwharf Quays, and that they will only be permitted to cross the harbour to Gunwharf quays if they have an assigned berth. The Gunwharf Berthing Manager is contactable on VHF Ch 80 or 02392 836732.

SWASHWAY
The Swashway is an important channel for shallow draught vessels approaching and leaving Portsmouth Harbour. Hovercraft and high-speed Catamaran ferries often transit the area en-route to and from Ryde at speeds in excess of 24 knots. Hovercraft, being non-displacement craft usually navigate outside the Swashway in areas where depths are shallow. The Spitbank area, as a whole, is often used for yacht racing and regattas. Mariners in yachts and slow-moving craft are advised to maintain a thorough all-round lookout for the possible approach of high-speed ferries and other fast craft. Particular care needs to be taken to check the appropriate quarter before making an alteration of course. Mariners in high-speed craft are cautioned not to assume that other mariners, particularly those whom they are overtaking, are aware of their presence, and are to give them a sufficiently wide berth.

INNER SWASHWAY
The Inner Swashway is closed to vessels of 20m in length and over. Vessels over this size are to remain in the Approach Channel between the entrance to the Harbour and No 4 Bar Buoy. They should not enter the Small Boat Channel at any time except that they may do so when taking action to avoid collision under the COLREGS.

A Red Beacon is sited ½ cable to the south of Fort Blockhouse. Small Boats transiting between the Inner Swashway and the Small Boat Channel are to leave this to port.

THE HARBOUR ENTRANCE
Extra caution is to be taken in the harbour mouth to ensure that Small Boats are not swept into mid channel from the Small Boat Channel by the strong cross-tide which is often present.

Mariners who wish to register in accordance with paragraph 7.c. above are to do so in writing to The Kings's Harbour Master, Semaphore Tower, HM Naval Base, Portsmouth, PO1 3LT stating their name, vessel, berth and reason for registering. Those already on this register are not required to re-apply.

Check out all the rules and regulations here:

http://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/qhm/portsmouth

A significant naval port for centuries, Portsmouth is home to the world's oldest dry dock still in use and home to many famous ships, including Nelson's flagship HMS Victory. Portsmouth has declined as a naval base in recent years but remains a major dockyard and base for the Royal Navy. There is also a commercial port serving destinations on the continent for freight and passenger traffic.

The Spinnaker Tower is a recent addition to the city's skyline. It can be found in the recently redeveloped area known as Gunwharf Quays.

The Portsmouth Urban Area covers an area with a population well over twice that of the city of Portsmouth itself, and includes Fareham, Portchester, Gosport, Havant (which includes the large suburbs of Leigh Park), Lee-on-the-Solent, Stubbington and Waterlooville.

The suburbs of Portsmouth, and Southampton to the west, arguably form a conurbation stretching from Southampton to Havant on the M27/A27 road along the coast, and north to Clanfield on the A3 road.

There have been settlements in the area since before Roman times, mostly being offshoots of Portchester, which was a Roman base (Portus Adurni) and possible home of the Classis Britannica. Portsmouth is commonly regarded as having been founded in 1180 by John of Gisors (Jean de Gisors). Most early records of Portsmouth are thought to have been destroyed by Norman invaders following the Norman Conquest. The earliest detailed references to Portsmouth can be found in the Southwick Cartularies. However, there are records of "Portesmuða" from the late 9th century, meaning "mouth of the Portus harbour".

 
In the Domesday Book there is no mention of Portsmouth. However, settlements that later went on to form part of Portsmouth are listed. At this time it is estimated the Portsmouth area had a population not greater than two or three hundred. While in Portsea there was a small church prior to 1166, Portsmouth's first real church came into being in 1181 when a chapel dedicated to Thomas Becket was built by Augustinian monks and run by the monks of Southwick Priory until the Reformation. The modern Portsmouth Anglican Cathedral is built on the original location of the chapel.

 
In 1194 King Richard The Lionheart returned from being held captive in Austria, and set about summoning a fleet and an army to Portsmouth, which Richard had taken over from John of Gisors. On May 2, 1194 the King gave Portsmouth its first Royal Charter granting permission for the borough to hold a fifteen day annual "Free Market Fair", weekly markets, to set up a local court to deal with minor matters, and exemption from paying the annual tax, with the money instead used for local matters. King Richard later went on to build a number of houses and a hall in Portsmouth. The hall is thought to have been at the current location of the Clarence Barracks (the area was previously known as Kingshall Green). It is believed that the crescent and eight-point star found on the thirteenth century common seal of the borough was derived from the arms of William de Longchamp, Lord Chancellor to Richard I at the time of the granting of the charter. The crescent and star, in gold on a blue shield, were subsequently recorded by the College of Arms as the coat of arms of the borough.

In 1200 King John reaffirmed the rights and privileges awarded by King Richard. King John's desire to invade Normandy resulted in the establishment of Portsmouth as a permanent naval base, and soon after construction began on the first docks, and the Hospital of St Nicholas, which performed its duties as an almshouse and hospice. During the thirteenth century Portsmouth was commonly used by King Henry III and Edward I as a base for attacks against France.

By the fourteenth century commercial interests had grown considerably, despite rivalry with the dockyard of nearby Southampton. Common imports included wool, grain, wheat, woad, wax and iron, however the port's largest trade was in wine from Bayonne and Bordeaux.

In 1338 a French fleet led by Nicholas Béhuchet raided Portsmouth, destroying much of the town, with only the local church and hospital surviving. Edward III gave the town exemption from national taxes to aid reconstruction.

Only ten years after this devastation the town for the first time was struck by the Black Death. In order to prevent the regrowth of Portsmouth as a threat, the French again sacked the city in 1369, 1377 and 1380. Henry V built the first permanent fortifications of Portsmouth. In 1418 he ordered a wooden Round Tower be built at the mouth of the harbour, which was completed in 1426.

King Henry VIII rebuilt the fortifications with stone, raised a square tower, and assisted Robert Brygandine and Sir Reginald Bray in the construction of the country's first dry dock. In 1527, with some of the money from the dissolution of the monasteries, Henry VIII built Southsea Castle. In 1545, he saw his vice-flagship Mary Rose founder off Southsea Castle, with a loss of about 500 lives, while going into action against the French fleet. Over the years Portsmouth's fortification was increased by numerous monarchs, although most of these have now been converted into tourist attractions.

On 13 May 1787 11 ships sailed from Portsmouth, to establish the first European colony in Australia, it also marked the beginning of prisoner transports to that contient. It is known today as the First Fleet in Australia.
 
Portsmouth has a long history of supporting the Royal Navy logistically, leading to it being important in the development of the Industrial Revolution. Marc Isambard Brunel, the father of famed Portsmouth engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, established in 1802 the world's first mass production line at the Portsmouth Block Mills, to mass produce pulley blocks for rigging on the Royal Navy's ships. At its height the Dockyard was the largest industrial site in the world.

Admiral Nelson left Portsmouth for the final time in 1805 to command the fleet that would defeat the larger Franco-Spanish fleet at Trafalgar. The Royal Navy's reliance on Portsmouth led to the city becoming the most fortified in Europe, with a network of forts (a subset of "Palmerston's Follies") circling the city. From 1808 the Royal Navy's West Africa Squadron, who were tasked to stop the slave trade, operated out of Portsmouth. On December 21, 1872 a major scientific expedition, the Challenger Expedition, was launched from Portsmouth.
 
In 1916 the town experienced its first aerial bombardment when a Zeppelin airship bombed it during World War I.

In 1926 Portsmouth was granted city status, following a long campaign by the borough council. The application was made on the grounds that Portsmouth was the "first naval port of the kingdom". Two years later the city received the further honour of a lord mayoralty. In 1929 the city council added the motto "Heaven's Light Our Guide" to the medieval coat of arms. Apart from referring to the celestial objects in the arms, the motto was that of the Star of India. This recalled that troopships bound for the colony left from the port. Further changes were made to the arms in 1970, when the Portsmouth Museums Trust sponsored the grant of crest, supporters and heraldic badge. The crest and supporters are based on those of the royal arms, but altered to show the city's maritime connections: the lions and unicorn have been given fish tails, and a naval crown placed around the latter animal. Around the unicorn is wrapped a representation of "The Mighty Chain of Iron", a Tudor defensive boom across Portsmouth Harbour.

 
The city was bombed extensively during World War II, destroying many houses and the Guildhall. While most of the city has since been rebuilt, developers still occasionally find unexploded bombs. Southsea beach and Portsmouth Harbour were military embarkation points for the D-Day landings on June 6 1944. Southwick House, just to the north of Portsmouth, had been chosen as the headquarters for the Supreme Allied Commander, US General Dwight D. Eisenhower, during D-Day.

After the war, much of the city's housing stock was damaged and more was cleared in an attempt to improve the quality of housing. Those people affected by this were moved out from the centre of the city to new developments such as Paulsgrove and Leigh Park. Post-war redevelopment throughout the country was characterised by utilitarian and brutalist architecture, with Portsmouth's Tricorn Centre one of the most famous examples. More recently, a new wave of redevelopment has seen Tricorn's demolition, the renewal of derelict industrial sites, and construction of the Spinnaker Tower.

A tenth of the city's workforce works at Portsmouth Naval Dockyard, which is directly linked to the city's biggest industry, defence, with major sites for BAE and VT Group located in the city. VT have been awarded some of the construction work on the two new Royal Navy aircraft carriers, although this involved the merger with BAe ship group. This will create 3000 new jobs in the city. There is also a major ferry port which deals with both passengers and cargo. The city is also host to the European headquarters of IBM, and the UK headquarters of Zurich Financial Services.

 
In the last decade the number of shops in Portsmouth has grown dramatically due to both the buoyancy of the local economy and improved transport links. In the city centre, shopping is centred around Commercial Road and the 1980s Cascades Shopping Centre, with over 100 high street shops between them. Recent redevelopment have created new shopping areas, including the upmarket Gunwharf Quays, containing fashion stores, restaurants, and a cinema; and the Historic Dockyard, which aims at the tourist sector and holds regular French markets, and an annual Christmas market. Large shopping areas include Ocean Retail Park, on the north-eastern side of Portsea Island, composed of shops requiring large floor space for selling consumer goods; and the Bridge Centre an 11,043 square metre shopping centre built in 1988, now dominated by the Asda Walmart store. There are also many smaller shopping areas throughout the city.

There is a small fishing fleet based in the city.

Tourism is also a growing sector of the economy.

The housing boom has also spurned economic growth with prices rising at a speed second only to London.

Culture

The city has two Theatres - both designed by the Victorian/Edwardian architect and entrepreneur Frank Matcham. The New Theatre Royal in Guildhall Walk near to the City Centre, specialises in classical, modern and avant-garde drama and the newly-restored Kings Theatre in Southsea's Albert Road has many amateur musicals as well an increasing number of national tours. Other venues include the Third Floor Arts Venue in the Central Library and the South Parade Pier, as well as the Portsmouth Guildhall itself, which hosts numerous musical events and an extensive annual programme of the Bournemouth Symphony Orchestra and is on the national touring circuit of well known singers and groups.

The city has three established music venues: The Wedgewood Rooms, The Pyramids and The Guildhall. Since the late 1970s only three acts from the city have made the Top 40 of the UK Singles Chart: the critically acclaimed indie/rock bands The Cranes and Ricky; plus the novelty pop act, Same Difference.

For many years a series of symphony concerts has been presented at the Guildhall by the Bournemouth Symphony Orchestra. In 1979, 1982, 1985, 1988 and 1991 the city was host to a major international string quartet competition, whose winners included the Takacs (Hungary), Endellion (UK), Hagen (Austria) and Ysaÿe (France) quartets. (The competition subsequently moved to London.) The Portsmouth Sinfonia (1970-1979) approached classical music from a different angle.

The city is home to FA Premier League football team, Portsmouth F.C., who play their home games at Fratton Park. 'Pompey', as the club is colloquially known, is the most successful football club south of Birmingham (with the exception of the clubs in London), having twice been crowned Champions of England, and are the current FA Cup holders. The City's second team, United Services Portsmouth F.C. play in the Wessex League Division One. Portsmouth Rugby Football Club play their home games in the London Division 1 at Rugby Camp, Hilsea. Like many towns on the English south coast, watersports are popular here, particularly sailing and yachting. Locks Sailing Club at Longshore way is the city's premier dinghy sailing club. The city's rowing club is located in Southsea at the Seafront near the Hovercraft Terminal.

In literature, Portsmouth is the chief location for Jonathan Meades' novel Pompey (1993) ISBN 0-09-930821-5, in which it is inhabited largely by vile, corrupt, flawed freaks. He has subsequently admitted that he had never actually visited the city at that time. Since then he has presented a TV programme about the Victorian architecture in Portsmouth Dockyard.

In Jane Austen's novel Mansfield Park, Portsmouth is the hometown of the main character Fanny Price, and is the setting of most of the closing chapters of the book.

In Dicken's Nicholas Nickleby, the hero and Smike make their way to Portsmouth and get involved in a theatrical troupe.

Portsmouth Point is an overture for orchestra by the English composer William Walton. The work was inspired by Rowlandson's print depicting Portsmouth Point. It was used as an opening for a Proms Concert in the 2007 season.

H.M.S. Pinafore, is a comic opera in two acts, with music by Arthur Sullivan and libretto by W. S. Gilbert, which is set in Portsmouth Harbour. Using the operetta music of Sullivan (arranged by Charles Mackerras) and The Bumboat Woman's Story by W S Gilbert, John Cranko's 1951 ballet Pineapple Poll is set at the quayside in Portsmouth.

Portsmouth also runs its own series of concerts encompassing a range of music at the Bandstand in Southsea Common.

The city is also known for its vibrant south Asian community and is where Bollywood starlet Geeta Basra hails from. She was born and raised in the city where her family still live.

The City hosts yearly remembrances of the D-Day landings to which veterans from the Allied nations travel to attend.

Geography
 
East facing aerial view of Portsmouth (with Gosport in the foreground)
View over Portsmouth from Portsdown Hill.Most of the city of Portsmouth lies on Portsea Island, located where the Solent joins the English Channel. This makes Portsmouth the United Kingdom's only island city and the thirteenth most densely populated place in Europe. It is the second most densely populated place in the UK, after Inner London.

The island is separated from the mainland to the north by a narrow creek, bridged in places to make it - in appearance - a peninsula. The sheltered Portsmouth Harbour lies to the west of the island and the large tidal bay of Langstone Harbour is to the east. Portsdown Hill dominates the skyline to the north, providing a magnificent panoramic view over the city, and to the south are the waters of the Solent with the Isle of Wight beyond.

Being a seaside city, it is low-lying == the majority of its surface area is only about 10 feet above sea level, the highest natural point on Portsea Island being Kingston Cross (21 feet) although the road surface over Fratton raliway bridge reaches 25. There are, therefore, dangers that rising sea levels as a result of global warming could cause serious damage to the city.
The west of the city is mainly council estates such as Buckland, Landport and Portsea. These were built after most of the original Victorian terraces were destroyed by bombings in World War II. After the war the massive estate of Leigh Park (one of the largest housing development of its kind in Europe) was built to solve the chronic housing shortage during the post-war reconstruction. As of the early part of this decade this estate is now entirely under the jurisdiction of Havant Borough Council, However Portsmouth City Council is still the Landlord for these properties, thus making it the biggest landowner in Havant Borough.

Old Portsmouth which is the oldest part of the city, was also known as Spice Island and was famous for its pubs, that serviced the many sailors calling into the port. Districts of Portsmouth; Widley, Paulsgrove, Wymering, Cosham, Drayton, Farlington, Port Solent, North Harbour, Highbury, Hilsea, Anchorage Park, North End, Tipner, Stamshaw, Copnor, Landport, Buckland, Baffins, Fratton, City Centre, Portsea, Old Portsmouth, Southsea, Milton and Eastney.

Tourist attractions
 
Most of Portsmouth's tourist attractions are related to its naval history. In the last decade Portsmouth's Historic Dockyard has been given a much needed face-lift. Among the attractions are the D-Day museum (which holds the Overlord embroidery) and, in the dockyard, HMS Victory, the remains of Henry VIII's flagship, the Mary Rose (raised from the seabed in 1982), HMS WarriorTemplate:WP Ships HMS instances (Britain's first iron-clad steamship) and the Royal Naval Museum.

Many of the city's former defences now host museums or events. Several of the Victorian era forts on Portsdown Hill are now tourist attractions. Fort Nelson is now home to the Royal Armouries museum, Forts Purbrook and Widley are activities centres. the Tudor era Southsea Castle has a small museum, and much of the seafront defences up to the Round Tower are open to the public. The southern part of the once large Royal Marines Eastney Barracks is now the Royal Marine Museum. There are also many buildings in the city that occasionally host open days particularly those on the D-Day walk which are seen on signs around the city which note sites of particularly importance in the city to Operation Overlord.

The city also hosts the D-Day museum a short distance from Southsea Castle; this museum is home to the famous Overlord Tapestry.

Portsmouth's long association with the armed forces means it has a large number of war memorials around the city, including several at the Royal Marines Museum, at the dockyards and in Victoria Park. In the city centre, the Guildhall Square Cenotaph displays the names of the fallen, and is guarded by stone sculptures of machine gunners carved by the sculptor Charles Sargeant Jagger. The memorial is inscribed:

“ THIS MEMORIAL WAS ERECTED BY THE PEOPLE OF PORTSMOUTH IN PROUD AND LOVING MEMORY OF THOSE WHO IN THE GLORIOUS MORNING OF THEIR DAYS FOR ENGLAND'S SAKE LOST ALL BUT ENGLAND'S PRAISE. MAY LIGHT PERPETUAL SHINE UPON THEM. ”
—West face
 

The millennium project to build the Spinnaker Tower at Gunwharf Quays was completed in 2005. The tower is 552 ft tall and features viewing decks at sea level, 325 ft, 341 ft and 357 ft.

Other tourist attractions include the birthplace of Charles Dickens, the Blue Reef Aquarium (formerly the Sea Life Centre), Cumberland House (a natural history museum), The Royal Marines Museum and Southsea Castle. Southsea's seafront is also home to Clarence Pier Amusement Park.

Portsmouth is also home to the Genesis Expo, the UK's first (and to date only) creationist museum.

English Heritage and the Ministry of Defence are in the process of turning the Portsmouth Block Mills into a museum.

The text on this HISTORY page is covered by the following licence
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Text_of_the_GNU_Free_Documentation_License

With the berthing arrangements around Portsmouth Harbour being spread out in different areas, it makes sense to cover the three main areas separately.

Many thanks to member Garry Flashman who has provided this information and photos:

Vicinity of Haslar Marina:

Haslar creek is the host to Hornet, the wartime base for fast gunboats (MGBs) and torpedo boats (MTBs).  It is now the base for the Joint Services Adventurous Sail Training Centre yachts and the Royal Navy Sailing Association.  Much as I’m sure they would love to welcome visitors, for obvious security reasons they cannot.  On the opposite, Western side of the creek is Haslar marina.

"Haslar Marina
Tuck in astern of the large green lightship, very clearly marked Haslar Marina, to find the visitors moorings.  As always either phone or radio to confirm, and these are very comfortable although there can be wash from passing traffic and some interesting cross tides to be taken note of when close quarters manoeuvring.  Once ashore the facilities are excellent.
Contact:
Tel: 02392 601 201
VHF Ch 80"


Mary Mouse

Tel: 02392 503 387
The lighthship itself hosts the Mary Mouse, a bar/restaurant overlooking the creek and harbour entrance.  Here you can enjoy a pint or two and a reasonable meal, either on deck or down below, watching the waterborne world go by.

Hardies

Tel: 02392 588 810
Ashore there is Hardies, a very comfortable bistro bar with an excellent kitchen, capable of catering for larger parties as well as families.

Submarine Museum

Tel: 02392 510 354
The submarine museum is well worth a visit, with HMS Alliance as the centre piece.  With a guided tour you will see how the crew lived at sea, the engines and mechanical equipment and, of course, the torpedoes.  There is also a well presented shoreside centre, with audio visual as well as static displays of the submarine service.

Close by is the Gosport ferry to take you across the harbour to Portsmouth.  There are two vessels which run at around ten minute intervals, depending on the time of day, and while they normally take appropriate note of yachts and leisure craft they don’t take kindly to bad seamanship.  See pics...

Gosport.

The delights of this town are covered in our Portsmouth 2 coverage

Portsmouth.

Having exhausted the Western arm of the harbour, let’s take ourselves back to Ballast Post.  You’ve called up QHM and been given permission to cross.  You now have two options, Camber Dock to Starboard and Gunwharf Quay to port.  Be very careful, the tide sluices through this part of the harbour and you could easily find yourself in five knots or more, particularly in a spring ebb.

"Camber Dock
First, you need very good fenders, and fender boards.  And you need to be prepared to tend your lines.
You can moor alongside the dock wall close to the South end of the entrance.  The dock is home to the fishing fleet, and the fish market.  It is also home to the Isle of Wight car ferry.  It’s busy."

There are attractions, however.  You will find yourself just a few yards from the:

Bridge Tavern
Tel: 02392 752 992

This is a good, traditional pub with an excellent kitchen.  And of course it is right in amongst the boats, both work and pleasure.  Given where you are moored it is a matter of moments to slip out and check your lines.
If you’re into fish, take a stroll to the fish market on the opposite side of the quay.  Sea food doesn’t get much fresher - the boats deliver their catch from right outside.

"Gunwharf Quays
Tel: 02392 836 732
It’s not cheap, at £3.75 per metre per day depending on your boat, but you are right in the centre of the old part of town and it is well sheltered.  You are also likely to find yourself in the company of some spectacular craft including Thames Barges and tall ships."

If you’ve got a head for heights you can go up Spinnaker Tower.  You can’t miss it, it’s 560ft tall, and in fact you’ll probably have spotted it from miles away as you approached Portsmouth.  The views must be some of the best to be had.
Gunwharf used to be home for a very important Navy base and has now been totally redeveloped as a retail destination.  The Slug and Lettuce and All Bar One pubs both have commanding views over the harbour mouth where watching the world go by can include large commercial vessels, cruise ships and of course warships.  Tucked a bit further away from the front, and also well worth a visit is the Old Customs House, now a Fullers house.

Very close to hand is a massive retail centre with most clothing outlets and a wide variety of restaurants.  Portsmouth Harbour rail station is close by, with links both to London and the West. 

Old Portsmouth
Within reasonable walking distance is Old Portsmouth, guarding the entrance to the harbour.  As well as some lovely old buildings there are two pubs well worth a mention.

Spice Island
Tel: 02392 870 543

With a good eatery on two floors, Spice Island has a commanding view up the harbour

Still and West
Tel: 02392 821 567

Pretty well next door to Spice Island and on two floors, again with a fine view up the harbour, it is right alongside the entrance.  Indeed there is a photo of a large warship which managed to get it wrong and ended up with her bows almost in the bar!
There is a large paved area in front of both pubs where on a nice day you can sit or stand, pint in hand, and watch the waterborne world go by almost within touching distance.  Needless to say it’s very popular.

From Old Portsmouth there is a very pleasant walk to Southsea front, initially up Henry V111’s Round Tower then along the fortifications past Clarence Pier and the hovercraft terminal to Southsea Common.  Here there are many attractions, including the aquarium and frequent events of various sorts.  A stroll along the front to Southsea Pier is to be recommended.

Back to Portsmouth..



Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

Portsmouth is one of the Royal Navy’s most important bases and has been since 1194, would you believe?  For the first time visitor this is the ‘must do’.

By far the best way of doing this is with the ‘all attractions’ ticket.  This includes the Historic Dockyard, as well as HMS Alliance and the Submarine Museum, and Explosion! the museum of naval fire power, both located on the Gosport side.  Importantly it includes the waterbus service linking all three sites.  The ticket lasts a year, which is a good thing because you’ll not do justice to everything in a couple of days.  Incidentally you can pick up the waterbus from both the Gosport sites if you are moored on that side.

You won’t have missed HMS Warrior, her three masts standing proud just off the Hard.  Built in 1860 and now carefully restored, she was Britain’s first iron-clad battleship.  She was powered by steam as well as sail, and was the pride of Queen Victoria’s Navy.

Nelson’s flagship, HMS Victory, is also fully preserved.  The tour around her will give a good idea of just how tough life was for the ordinary seaman living, quite literally, alongside his cannon.

Not to be missed is Henry V111’s flagship, the Mary Rose.  Built in 1510 she capsized and sank off Spithead in 1545 literally under the gaze, doubtless horrified, of the King.  She was raised by divers in 1982 and has undergone a continuous process of conservation ever since.  She is now housed in a purpose built museum. 

Because she went down so quickly and was preserved under the mud, a vast number of artefacts were preserved in their original condition and are now on display.  The museum is set up in such a way that you are walking through the hull of the ship herself.  Fascinating.

Other attractions include the National Museum of the Royal Navy, and Boathouse No 4 where you can watch craftsmen and trainees at work restoring and maintaining traditional wooden craft.  You can even test your skills by climbing a mast.

Gosport plus Fareham and Port Solent are covered separately